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ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION

Year 2023, , 180 - 191, 30.09.2023
https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1262844

Abstract

Zero waste fashion design is a way and at the end of the pattern designing process occurs no cut-and-sew waste. Modular fashion design is a process in that one garment can have the appearance of different designs which can be modified by the consumer. The zero waste fashion design and modular fashion design are considered together as a multiple design methodology to supply sustainable fashion production. Although both design techniques are completely unique, the common aim of sustainability design results can be reached through the combination of the two.
In this study, a collection was designed by integrating these two design methodologies: zero waste and modular fashion. If consumers have an active role in the sustainable design process, the responsibility for sustainable fashion design falls partially on them. The consumer is one of the three pillars of sustainable design philosophy, so they have a major role in helping create a balance on the sustainable fashion production and a sustainable fashion market. Thanks to this harmony, the design process should consider consumer-centered design options and consumer demands.
In this study, an experimental development practicing method via modular and zero waste fashion design methods were used to create a suggested collection. At the end of this study, three garments were designed for that suggested collection, and each can be worn in three or four different looks.

References

  • 1. WFTO . (2013, 9). 10 Prıncıples of Faır Trade. (World Fair Trade Organization): www.wfto.com: http://www.wfto.com/fair-trade/10-principles-fair-trade Erişim tarihi: 08.05.2023
  • 2. Kipöz, Ş., (2015), Kuşaklararası Sürdürülebilirlik ve Dişil Bilgeliğin Aktarımı. Şölen Kipöz (Edt.), Sürdürülebilir Moda. 113-123. Yeni İnsan, İstanbul.
  • 3. McDonough, W., & Braungart, M., (2002), Remaking the Way, We Make Things Cradle to Cradle, North Point Press, New York.
  • 4. MClennan, J. F., (2004), The Philosophy of the Sustainable Design, Ecotone Design Publishing Company, Canada.
  • 5. El-Haggar, S., (2010), Sustainable Industrial Design and Waste Management Cradle-to-cradle for Sustainable Development, Elsevier Academic Press, USA.
  • 6. Cho, S., (2014), A Master Thesis: Development of Zero Waste Fashion Design Process Guideline from an Educational, The Graduate School Yonsei University, Department of Human Environment and Design. Seoul: Yonsei University.
  • 7. Enes, E., (2021), Zero Waste Fashion Design and Jigsaw Puzzle, Tessellation, and Analyzing of Subtraction Cutting Methods, STAR Sanat ve Tasarım Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2 (2), 116-128.
  • 8. Yeşilpınar, S., & Aytaç, V., (2009), An Approach Aimed at Fabric Consumption in T Shirt Production, Textile Research Journal, 5(79), 461-467.
  • 9. Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D., (1999), A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries. Oxford University Press, New York & Oxford.
  • 10. Cooklin, G., (1997), Garment Technology for Fashion Designers. Blackwell Sciences, Oxford.
  • 11. Enes, E. & Kipöz, Ş., (2020), The role of fabric usage for minimization of cut-and-sew waste within the apparel production line: Case of a summer dress. Journal of Cleaner Production. Volume 248, 1 March 2020, 119221, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro. 2019.119221 12. Rissanen, T. (2005). From 15% to 0: Investigation the Creation of Fabric Waste. Kreativ Institute for Design og Teknologi.
  • 13. Rissanen, T., (2008), Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. In J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities (184-206), New York: Fairchild Books.
  • 14. McQuillan, H., (2011), Zero-Waste Design Practice: Strategies and Risk Taking for Garment Design. In T. R.
  • 15. McQuillan, H., (2019), Zero Waste Design Thinking, University of Boras Studies in Artistic Research, The Swedish School of Textiles.
  • 16. Enes, E., (2019), Adaptation of Zero-waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the case of Turkey. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi, İzmir.
  • 17. McQuillan, H., (2012), ZWPC Workshops. Holly McQuillan Designer and Researcher, https://hollymcquillan.com/zwpc-workshops/ Erişim Tarihi: 12.12.2022
  • 18. Aakko, M., & Niinimaki, K., (2013), 0% Waste, 100% Aesthetics. 10th European Academy of Design Conference - Crafting the Future. Gotenburg: Gothenburg University, School of Design and Crafts.
  • 19. Enes, E. & Durakovic Korosec, Zero Waste Fashion Design Method as a Necessary İntegral Part of Fashion Design Education. II. International Congress on Art and Design Research, 20-21 June 2022. Niğde, Türkiye, 2022.
  • 20. Fletcher, K., (2008), Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, Earthscan Ltd., London, UK.
  • 21. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H., (2015), Zero Waste Fashion Design. Fairchild Books, Bloomsbury Publishing, London, New York, UK, USA.
  • 22. Baldwin, C. Y., & Clark, K. B. (2000). Design rules: The power of modularity (Vol. 1). MIT press.
  • 23. JA Clothing, The Role of Modularity in Sustainable Fashion, https://www.ja-clothing.com/post/the-role-of-modularity-in-sustainable-fashion Erişim Tarihi: 26.12.1022
  • 24. Fletcher, K., & Grose, L., (2011), Fashion & Sustainability Design for Change, Laurence King Publishing Ltd., London.
  • 25. Laitala, K. M., Boks, C., & Klepp, I. G., (2015), Making clothing last: A design approach for reducing the environmental impacts, International Journal of Design. Vol9 (2). 93-107.
  • 26. Gwilt, A. & Pal, R. (2017, 8-10 November) Conditional garment design for longevity, Product Lifetimes and The Environment Conference, Delft University of Technology. DOI: 10.3233/978-1-61499-820-4-149
  • 27. Karell, E., (2013), Planned continuity – Multi-life Garments through Modular Structures & Supplemental Services, K. Niinimäki Inside, Sustainable Fashion: New approaches. Aalto University publication series, Helsinki, Finland.
  • 28. Nadasbaş, S.E., (2018), Bedeni ve modeli değiştirilebilen modüler giysilere yönelik tüketici eğilimleri analizi, Gazi Üniversitesi, Güzel Sanatlar Enstitüsü, Moda Tasarımı Anabilim Dalı, Yayımlanmamış Doktora Tezi, Ankara.
  • 29. Deploy, (2022), Sustainability. https://deployworkshop.com/ pages/about Erişim Tarihi: 05.01.2022
  • 30. McQuillan, H., & Rissanen, T., (2011), YIELD exhibition catalog. Textile Arts Center: Brooklyn, NY. http://yieldexhibition.com/ yieldexhibition-catalogue.pdf Erişim Tarihi: 22 November 2022
  • 31. Runway Dream. Julian Robert Subtraction Cutting. https://runwaydreamblog.wordpress.com/2019/02/19/julian-roberts-subtraction-cutting/ Erişim tarihi: 23.12.2022
  • 32. Kiisel, K., (2020), Draping. United Kingdom, Hachette.
  • 33. Rissanen, T., (2013), Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. Doctor of Philosophy, University of Technology, Design, Sydney.
  • 34. Baxter, T. (1810). An Illustration of the Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman Costume; in forty outlines, with descriptions, selected, drawn, & engraved, London.
  • 35. Bozhilova, T. How to draw a saree? I Draw for Fashion. https://www.idrawfashion.com/clothes/basics-clothes/how-to-draw-saree/ Erişim tarihi: 09.05.2023
  • 36. Balcı, A., (2011), Sosyal Bilimlerde Araştırma Yöntem, Teknik ve İlkeler. Pegem Akademi Yayıncılık, Ankara.
  • 37. Gök, A., (2007), Frascati Kılavuzu: Frascati Kılavuzu Işığında Işığında Ar-Ge From TUBİTAK: https://www.tubitak.gov.tr/t ubitak_content_files/BTYPD/kilavuzlar/Frascati_Presentation.pdf Erişim tarihi: 25.11.2022

SIFIR ATIK VE MODÜLER MODA TASARIMI: BİR KOLEKSİYON ÖNERİSİ

Year 2023, , 180 - 191, 30.09.2023
https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1262844

Abstract

Sıfır atık moda tasarımı, bir yöntem olarak kabul edilir ve pastal planı tasarım sürecinin sonunda hiç kumaş atığı oluşturmaz. Modüler moda tasarımı ise bir giysiye birden farklı tasarımların görünümünü kazandırma sürecidir ve bu tasarımlar tüketici tarafından değiştirilebilmektedir. Sıfır atık moda tasarımı ve modüler moda tasarımı, sürdürülebilir moda üretimini sağlamak için çoklu bir tasarım metodolojisi olarak bir arada ele alınmaktadır. Her iki tasarım tekniği tamamen farklı olmalarına rağmen, ikisinin birleşmesiyle ortak amaçları olan sürdürülebilir tasarım sonuçlarına ulaşılabilmektedir.
Bu çalışmada, sıfır atık ve modüler moda tasarım, bu iki farklı tasarım metodolojisinin entegre edilmesi ile bir koleksiyon tasarlanmıştır. Tüketici, sürdürülebilir tasarım sürecinde aktif rol aldığı sürece, sürdürülebilir moda tasarımının sorumluluğu tüketici açısından önem kazanmaktadır. Tüketici, sürdürülebilir tasarım felsefesinin üç ayağından biridir ve bu nedenle sürdürülebilir moda üretimi ve sürdürülebilir moda tüketimi arasında bir denge oluşturmak için önemli bir role sahiptir. Bu uyum sayesinde, tasarım süreci, tüketici merkezi tasarım seçenekleri ile tüketici taleplerini dikkate alınmalıdır.
Bu çalışmada deneysel geliştirme uygulama yöntemi aracılığı ile modüler ve sıfır atık moda tasarımı yöntemleri bir koleksiyon önerisi oluşturmak için kullanılmıştır. Bu çalışmanın sonucunda, önerilen koleksiyon için üç farklı giysi tasarlanmış ve bu giysiler üç veya dört farklı görünümde giyilebilmektedir.

References

  • 1. WFTO . (2013, 9). 10 Prıncıples of Faır Trade. (World Fair Trade Organization): www.wfto.com: http://www.wfto.com/fair-trade/10-principles-fair-trade Erişim tarihi: 08.05.2023
  • 2. Kipöz, Ş., (2015), Kuşaklararası Sürdürülebilirlik ve Dişil Bilgeliğin Aktarımı. Şölen Kipöz (Edt.), Sürdürülebilir Moda. 113-123. Yeni İnsan, İstanbul.
  • 3. McDonough, W., & Braungart, M., (2002), Remaking the Way, We Make Things Cradle to Cradle, North Point Press, New York.
  • 4. MClennan, J. F., (2004), The Philosophy of the Sustainable Design, Ecotone Design Publishing Company, Canada.
  • 5. El-Haggar, S., (2010), Sustainable Industrial Design and Waste Management Cradle-to-cradle for Sustainable Development, Elsevier Academic Press, USA.
  • 6. Cho, S., (2014), A Master Thesis: Development of Zero Waste Fashion Design Process Guideline from an Educational, The Graduate School Yonsei University, Department of Human Environment and Design. Seoul: Yonsei University.
  • 7. Enes, E., (2021), Zero Waste Fashion Design and Jigsaw Puzzle, Tessellation, and Analyzing of Subtraction Cutting Methods, STAR Sanat ve Tasarım Araştırmaları Dergisi, 2 (2), 116-128.
  • 8. Yeşilpınar, S., & Aytaç, V., (2009), An Approach Aimed at Fabric Consumption in T Shirt Production, Textile Research Journal, 5(79), 461-467.
  • 9. Abernathy, F. H., Dunlop, J. T., Hammond, J. H., & Weil, D., (1999), A stitch in time. Lean retailing and the transformation of manufacturing - Lessons from the apparel and textile industries. Oxford University Press, New York & Oxford.
  • 10. Cooklin, G., (1997), Garment Technology for Fashion Designers. Blackwell Sciences, Oxford.
  • 11. Enes, E. & Kipöz, Ş., (2020), The role of fabric usage for minimization of cut-and-sew waste within the apparel production line: Case of a summer dress. Journal of Cleaner Production. Volume 248, 1 March 2020, 119221, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro. 2019.119221 12. Rissanen, T. (2005). From 15% to 0: Investigation the Creation of Fabric Waste. Kreativ Institute for Design og Teknologi.
  • 13. Rissanen, T., (2008), Creating Fashion without the Creation of Fabric Waste. In J. H. Connie Ulasewicz (Ed.), Sustainable Fashion: Why Now? A conversation exploring issues, practices, and possibilities (184-206), New York: Fairchild Books.
  • 14. McQuillan, H., (2011), Zero-Waste Design Practice: Strategies and Risk Taking for Garment Design. In T. R.
  • 15. McQuillan, H., (2019), Zero Waste Design Thinking, University of Boras Studies in Artistic Research, The Swedish School of Textiles.
  • 16. Enes, E., (2019), Adaptation of Zero-waste Pattern Design Method to Fashion Industry with the case of Turkey. Yayınlanmamış Doktora Tezi, İzmir Ekonomi Üniversitesi, İzmir.
  • 17. McQuillan, H., (2012), ZWPC Workshops. Holly McQuillan Designer and Researcher, https://hollymcquillan.com/zwpc-workshops/ Erişim Tarihi: 12.12.2022
  • 18. Aakko, M., & Niinimaki, K., (2013), 0% Waste, 100% Aesthetics. 10th European Academy of Design Conference - Crafting the Future. Gotenburg: Gothenburg University, School of Design and Crafts.
  • 19. Enes, E. & Durakovic Korosec, Zero Waste Fashion Design Method as a Necessary İntegral Part of Fashion Design Education. II. International Congress on Art and Design Research, 20-21 June 2022. Niğde, Türkiye, 2022.
  • 20. Fletcher, K., (2008), Sustainable Fashion & Textiles, Earthscan Ltd., London, UK.
  • 21. Rissanen, T., & Mcquillan, H., (2015), Zero Waste Fashion Design. Fairchild Books, Bloomsbury Publishing, London, New York, UK, USA.
  • 22. Baldwin, C. Y., & Clark, K. B. (2000). Design rules: The power of modularity (Vol. 1). MIT press.
  • 23. JA Clothing, The Role of Modularity in Sustainable Fashion, https://www.ja-clothing.com/post/the-role-of-modularity-in-sustainable-fashion Erişim Tarihi: 26.12.1022
  • 24. Fletcher, K., & Grose, L., (2011), Fashion & Sustainability Design for Change, Laurence King Publishing Ltd., London.
  • 25. Laitala, K. M., Boks, C., & Klepp, I. G., (2015), Making clothing last: A design approach for reducing the environmental impacts, International Journal of Design. Vol9 (2). 93-107.
  • 26. Gwilt, A. & Pal, R. (2017, 8-10 November) Conditional garment design for longevity, Product Lifetimes and The Environment Conference, Delft University of Technology. DOI: 10.3233/978-1-61499-820-4-149
  • 27. Karell, E., (2013), Planned continuity – Multi-life Garments through Modular Structures & Supplemental Services, K. Niinimäki Inside, Sustainable Fashion: New approaches. Aalto University publication series, Helsinki, Finland.
  • 28. Nadasbaş, S.E., (2018), Bedeni ve modeli değiştirilebilen modüler giysilere yönelik tüketici eğilimleri analizi, Gazi Üniversitesi, Güzel Sanatlar Enstitüsü, Moda Tasarımı Anabilim Dalı, Yayımlanmamış Doktora Tezi, Ankara.
  • 29. Deploy, (2022), Sustainability. https://deployworkshop.com/ pages/about Erişim Tarihi: 05.01.2022
  • 30. McQuillan, H., & Rissanen, T., (2011), YIELD exhibition catalog. Textile Arts Center: Brooklyn, NY. http://yieldexhibition.com/ yieldexhibition-catalogue.pdf Erişim Tarihi: 22 November 2022
  • 31. Runway Dream. Julian Robert Subtraction Cutting. https://runwaydreamblog.wordpress.com/2019/02/19/julian-roberts-subtraction-cutting/ Erişim tarihi: 23.12.2022
  • 32. Kiisel, K., (2020), Draping. United Kingdom, Hachette.
  • 33. Rissanen, T., (2013), Zero-Waste Fashion Design: A study at the intersection of cloth, fashion design and pattern cutting. Doctor of Philosophy, University of Technology, Design, Sydney.
  • 34. Baxter, T. (1810). An Illustration of the Egyptian, Grecian, and Roman Costume; in forty outlines, with descriptions, selected, drawn, & engraved, London.
  • 35. Bozhilova, T. How to draw a saree? I Draw for Fashion. https://www.idrawfashion.com/clothes/basics-clothes/how-to-draw-saree/ Erişim tarihi: 09.05.2023
  • 36. Balcı, A., (2011), Sosyal Bilimlerde Araştırma Yöntem, Teknik ve İlkeler. Pegem Akademi Yayıncılık, Ankara.
  • 37. Gök, A., (2007), Frascati Kılavuzu: Frascati Kılavuzu Işığında Işığında Ar-Ge From TUBİTAK: https://www.tubitak.gov.tr/t ubitak_content_files/BTYPD/kilavuzlar/Frascati_Presentation.pdf Erişim tarihi: 25.11.2022
There are 36 citations in total.

Details

Primary Language English
Subjects Textile and Fashion Design, Engineering
Journal Section Articles
Authors

Esra Enes 0000-0001-5411-2989

Başak Sayğılı 0000-0001-8302-7935

Publication Date September 30, 2023
Published in Issue Year 2023

Cite

APA Enes, E., & Sayğılı, B. (2023). ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION. Tekstil Ve Mühendis, 30(131), 180-191. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1262844
AMA Enes E, Sayğılı B. ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION. Tekstil ve Mühendis. September 2023;30(131):180-191. doi:10.7216/teksmuh.1262844
Chicago Enes, Esra, and Başak Sayğılı. “ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION”. Tekstil Ve Mühendis 30, no. 131 (September 2023): 180-91. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1262844.
EndNote Enes E, Sayğılı B (September 1, 2023) ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION. Tekstil ve Mühendis 30 131 180–191.
IEEE E. Enes and B. Sayğılı, “ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION”, Tekstil ve Mühendis, vol. 30, no. 131, pp. 180–191, 2023, doi: 10.7216/teksmuh.1262844.
ISNAD Enes, Esra - Sayğılı, Başak. “ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION”. Tekstil ve Mühendis 30/131 (September 2023), 180-191. https://doi.org/10.7216/teksmuh.1262844.
JAMA Enes E, Sayğılı B. ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION. Tekstil ve Mühendis. 2023;30:180–191.
MLA Enes, Esra and Başak Sayğılı. “ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION”. Tekstil Ve Mühendis, vol. 30, no. 131, 2023, pp. 180-91, doi:10.7216/teksmuh.1262844.
Vancouver Enes E, Sayğılı B. ZERO WASTE AND MODULAR FASHION DESIGN: A SUGGESTED COLLECTION. Tekstil ve Mühendis. 2023;30(131):180-91.